West Biking 110Lb Capacity Almost Universal Adjustable Bike Cargo Rack Cycling Equipment Stand Footstock Bicycle Luggage Carrier Racks with Reflective Logo

Easy to fit and very sturdy

Since I wanted a back rack for my battery, I looked at a few batteries that included a back rack with the purchase of the battery. However, all of the reviews of these racks were pretty bad stating that the racks were flimsy and not very good quality. I also believed that I would have trouble finding a way to mount their included rack onto the bike that I have.

So I instead purchased this rack for my battery and with a few alteration I was able to make it work and am much happier with the result. Here is my process for using this rack for my electric bicycle.

Photo 1: Here is this rack holding my e-bike battery pack. The battery weighs 11 pounds so the rack will have no trouble with this amount of weight. The description says that it has a 110 pound capacity but really don’t think I would trust it with more than 50 pounds safely.

When I first got it, I was really surprised at exactly how light this rack is. Of course, it’s supposed to be light so that it doesn’t weigh down the bicycle. The tubing is very tough and I don’t think I could bend it by hand.

One of the main things I wondered about was if the rack would end up being level depending on the angle of my seat post. Surprisingly enough, it’s very level. Maybe most bicycles use the same angle for their seat posts.

Photo 2: On this bike, there was no way to clamp this around the main seat post. At the top of the seat post is the clamp that holds the height of the seat. If I took off this clamp, the seat would fall down. My only choice was to clap this round the smaller tube the seat is mounted on.

However, the clamp included in the kit is too large to effectively clamp around this smaller diameter of tube. To solve this, I had a scrap of vinyl tubing that I cut to fill the space. This tubing measured 1 inch outside diameter and 3/4 inch inside diameter. I was able to find this at my local hardware store. With the tubing in place, the clamp on the rack fit nice and tight.

Photo 3: The main clamp is a good quality and works very well. The main washer and black plastic insert are already in place on the main clamp. Just be sure you put them directly under the main lever (on the outside of the front clamp face) or the clamp won’t work properly.

Photo 4: My battery pack was just a bit too long to fit flat down on the rack. This would not have been a problem except that the flat bed of the rack is recessed about 3/16″ with the outer ring of metal tubing sticking up around the outside edge.

Since the bottom holder of my battery needs to have a flat surface to mount onto, I had to create some spacers out of plastic. They are different thicknesses because my particular battery mount is not exactly flat all the way across. I drilled smaller holes into the rack and used large sheet metal screws. I screwed them in to cut the threads and then removed the screws so that it would be easier to put the screws back in when installing the battery mount.

Photo 5: I probably should back up just a bit. You can slide the main bar off the the rack but to do so you have to remove the clip on the end that holds the back reflector. This clip is riveted on so you’ll have to drill it out like I did. It would have been a lot easier if they would have used a simple bolt to do this.

Photo 6: This is a view of the underside of the rack. When mounting something onto the flat bed of the rack, your screws cannot be too long or they will hit the main bar underneath. You have about 1/2″ of extra space for screws to protrude through the bottom of the bed.

Photo 7: Originally I had intended to put lock washers under the sheet metal screws here. Unfortunately the screw heads protruded up too far and the battery would not slide into place so I had to discard the lock washers and use liquid thread lock on the machine screw threads instead. You cannot see the third mounting screw because it is located under the black plastic part of the mount. This black plastic piece must be removed to get to the final mounting screw.

Photo 8: Here is the battery fully mounted onto the rack. Make sure the battery can easily slide on and off.

Photo 9: I did not attach the saddle bag mounts onto the side of the rack but there were way more screws left over than I had expected. I’m thinking that someone included an extra bag of screws by mistake. It’s nice that they included the wrenches so no other tools were needed to put this on the bike. At one point I had stripped out one of the screws (or nuts) so having extra screws was nice.

Overall I think this rack was well worth the money and will hold up very well.

Easy fit for an Isinwheel M10 Plus (which comes without a rear rack). Sturdy components, more than enough hardware provided, rock solid, 10 minute install. The bracket that connects to the seat post must fit in the space left over once seat height is set, otherwise the seat will need to be adjusted higher.. possibly causing problems. I did not use the lower brackets, instead I connected the support posts directly to the existing allen bolts.

I bought this to use with a travel box so I can carry extra clothes if there is a change in weather or temperature. Now the rack comes with adjustable side posts but when I installed mine I found that just the seat clamp alone was very stable. so before installing the side posts I tried it out first without the side posts. I found the rack doesn’t move unless you accidentally bump it. Even then it barely moves and is easily centered. I usually only carry clothing which weights less then 5 lbs. If you plan on carrying something more heavier you will probably want to use the side posts to keep the rack centered. So far no complaints and I have yet to even try the side posts.

My son installed it himself. Works well. He did add another occy strap when carrying larger items.